Fruits · Nut tree

Growing walnut

Juglans regia · also called akhrot, doon (Kashmiri)Walnut is a large, long-lived nut tree of the temperate Himalaya, grown across the Kashmir valley and the hills of Jammu. It needs deep soil, a spring free of frost and no extreme summer heat, so it does not suit the warm plains or coasts.

Temperate Himalaya: Kashmir valley, Shimla, Kullu, Uttarakhand hills

Our team has checked this guide against the sources at the end of the page.Includes AI suggestions where no published guide covers a detail
Green walnuts in their husks on a walnut tree branch among the leaves
Photo: George Chernilevsky · PDM

At a glance

Walnut in the Temperate Himalaya

  • Season

    Nuts picked in September and October1

  • Sowing to last picking

    A perennial tree. Seedling trees take about 8 to 10 years to start bearing; grafted trees start in about 4 to 5 years.1

  • Nursery

    December1

    Part of this comes from the sources cited. The rest is an AI suggestion.

Across India

When to sow it

Twelve growing regions, January to December. Your region comes first.

Wait until December

The next sowing here is December.

  • Nursery
  • Transplant
  • Harvest
  • Today
  • Not suited here
Compare all 12 regions
Cold desertLadakh, Lahaul and SpitiNot suited hereSub-tropical foothillsJammu, Kangra, DehradunNot suited hereNorth-west plainsPunjab, Haryana, DelhiNot suited hereGangetic plainseastern Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, West Bengal plainsNot suited hereNorth-east hills and valleysAssam, Meghalaya, SikkimArid westRajasthan, Kutch, north GujaratNot suited hereCentral plateauMadhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, VidarbhaNot suited hereDeccan plateauinterior Maharashtra, Telangana, north KarnatakaNot suited hereSouth interiorBengaluru, Mysuru, interior Tamil NaduNot suited hereWest coastKerala, Goa, KonkanNot suited hereEast coastcoastal Tamil Nadu, Puducherry, coastal AndhraNot suited here
Today
See the dates as a table
RegionSowNurseryTransplantHarvest
Temperate HimalayaDecemberEarly spring (about March)September to October
Cold desertNot suited here
Sub-tropical foothillsNot suited here
North-west plainsNot suited here
Gangetic plainsNot suited here
North-east hills and valleysLate December to FebruaryLate August to early October
Arid westNot suited here
Central plateauNot suited here
Deccan plateauNot suited here
South interiorNot suited here
West coastNot suited here
East coastNot suited here

From seed to harvest

One season, day by day

Days from sowing

  1. Before sowing

    Well-rotted FYM

    5 to 6 kg per m² · Mix into the soil when preparing the beds · Nursery beds

    Well-rotted FYM and topsoil, one part FYM to two parts soil

    Fill each 1 m pit with the mix · Pit filling, before planting

    FYM (well-rotted farmyard manure)1,2,3

    Spread under the canopy each year; the amount rises with the age of the tree. SKUAST-Jammu says February to March; the national IPM package says December to January, in a trench 20 to 30 cm deep and 30 cm wide along the drip line. · Every year, from the first year

  2. Day 30

    Seeds come up1,3

Water is most needed while grafts and young trees settle in, and the need falls as the roots spread. How often to water depends on the tree's age, the soil, the rain, mulching and how the orchard floor is kept. Water during long dry spells in summer so trees do not wilt, and give a watering in the two to four weeks before the expected harvest. Walnut does not stand waterlogging, so keep the drains open and never let water stand at the roots.1,3

What it needs

Soil, sun and warmth

  • Soil pH1,3

    6 to 7

    Deep, well-drained silt loam or loam with plenty of organic matter, 2 to 3 m deep. The subsoil must be free of rock, hard clay and gravel layers so the roots can go down evenly. Avoid alkaline and sandy soils, and any spot where water stands.

  • Sunlight3

    Full sun. Plant in an open site with no shade.

  • Temperature1,2Part of this comes from the sources cited. The rest is an AI suggestion.

    Grows best at 18 to 30 °C

    Takes light frost.

    Monthly temperatures for the Temperate Himalaya aren't in the library yet.

Water and feeding

Watering1,3

Water is most needed while grafts and young trees settle in, and the need falls as the roots spread. How often to water depends on the tree's age, the soil, the rain, mulching and how the orchard floor is kept. Water during long dry spells in summer so trees do not wilt, and give a watering in the two to four weeks before the expected harvest. Walnut does not stand waterlogging, so keep the drains open and never let water stand at the roots.

Weeding3

Hoe deeply in the first year, then weed regularly around the young trees. Mulch the basins with 10 to 15 cm of dry grass or straw. Between the rows, slash or mow the weeds, or in the first 2 to 4 years grow peas, beans, soybean, cowpea or vegetables, which feed the soil and give a return.

WhenWhatHow muchHow
Nursery bedsWell-rotted FYM5 to 6 kg per m²Mix into the soil when preparing the beds
Pit filling, before plantingWell-rotted FYM and topsoil, one part FYM to two parts soilFill each 1 m pit with the mix
Every year, from the first yearFYM (well-rotted farmyard manure)Spread under the canopy each year; the amount rises with the age of the tree. SKUAST-Jammu says February to March; the national IPM package says December to January, in a trench 20 to 30 cm deep and 30 cm wide along the drip line.

Sources1,2,3

Varieties and yield

Typical rangeNo published guide covers this for the Temperate Himalaya, so this is an AI suggestion. Check it with local advice before you rely on it.

20 to 40 kg a tree

Yields vary with the plot, the seed and the season.

Varieties grown here1

  • Burzal (thin shelled)

    A broad shell group, not a single variety. Most trees are of seedling origin and no standard cultivar is grown yet.

  • Kagzi (medium shelled)

    A broad shell group, not a single variety.

  • Lake English

    An introduction found promising in the temperate areas of Jammu.

  • Opex Culchery

    An introduction found promising in the temperate areas of Jammu (name as printed).

Good neighbours3Part of this comes from the sources cited. The rest is an AI suggestion.

Grows well with

Pests and diseases1,3

Organic and cultural controls only.

  • Pest

    Mealy bugs

    Signs

    Insects under a white cottony mass below the collar of the plant. Nursery plants wilt and dry. Old, weak orchards suffer most and look sickly, with poor yields.

    What to do

    • Remove dead and drying trees
    • Rake the soil under the trunk in early November to expose the young insects
    • Tie a smooth band of polythene sheet or a grease band about 25 cm wide round the trunk, about 30 cm above the ground, in mid-December, so the crawlers cannot climb
    • Plough the orchard in summer to expose the eggs to heat and natural enemies

    Prevention

    • Do not plant infested saplings
  • Pest

    Leaf curl aphid, green peach aphid and walnut aphids

    Signs

    Aphids suck sap from leaves, leaf stalks, blossoms and young fruit. Leaves curl, twist, yellow and drop early, blossoms wither and young fruit falls.

    What to do

    • Grow buckwheat and other flowers that draw in the aphids' natural enemies

    Prevention

    • Do not plant infested stock
    • Keep trees vigorous with balanced feeding
  • Pest

    Lecanium scale and San Jose scale

    Signs

    Scales suck sap from bark and shoots. Branches attacked for 2 to 3 years may die, and sooty mould grows on the sticky exudate. Bark around San Jose scale often turns red.

    What to do

    • Prune out infested branches and twigs and destroy them
    • Plough the orchard after harvest
    • Protect ladybird beetles, lacewings and the small wasps that attack scale

    Prevention

    • Keep trees vigorous with balanced feeding
  • Pest

    Hairy caterpillar (Indian gypsy moth)

    Signs

    Caterpillars eat the leaves. Heavy attacks strip trees bare, and repeated stripping weakens and can kill them.

    What to do

    • Collect and destroy the egg masses
    • Staple sacking (burlap) skirts around the trunks and collect and destroy the caterpillars and pupae under them from May to the end of June
    • Hand-pick the gregarious caterpillars and cocoons from the trunk
  • Pest

    Chaffer beetles

    Signs

    Beetles eat leaves, buds, blossoms and young fruit, leaving holed leaves. The grubs feed on roots and plants may wilt.

    What to do

    • Use a light trap in the evenings
  • Pest

    Stem borer and shot hole (pin hole) borer

    Signs

    Holes in the trunk and branches with sawdust coming out, or fine galleries under the bark; leaves then yellow and wilt. A bad attack can kill the tree.

    What to do

    • Prune out and burn infested shoots and branches in winter
    • Push a flexible wire into the borer hole to kill the grub, then seal the hole with mud

    Prevention

    • Keep trees vigorous with balanced feeding
  • Pest

    Grey weevil

    Signs

    Weevils nibble the leaves. Nursery plants suffer most and can be stripped bare.

    What to do

    • Rake the soil round the trunk to expose the eggs to the sun and natural enemies
  • Pest

    Walnut weevil

    Signs

    Eggs are laid in pits cut into the young fruit. Grubs bore in and eat the kernel; adults leave round holes.

    What to do

    • Collect and destroy fallen and infested nuts every week until harvest, together with neighbours
    • Plough the orchard after harvest to expose the overwintering adults
    • Destroy leftover nuts in the orchard and in stores
  • Pest

    Codling moth

    Signs

    Caterpillars bore into the fruit. The national package lists it as a regional pest.

    What to do

    • Pheromone traps to watch for the moths, and mating-disruption dispensers from late May to the third week of July
  • Disease

    Leaf blotch and anthracnose (Marssonina)

    Signs

    Small, round, light brown spots on the leaves grow into large, irregular blotches that can cover the whole leaf. The fungus lives through winter on fallen leaves.

    What to do

    • Collect and burn the fallen leaves in autumn
    • Prune out diseased leaves and shoots

    Prevention

    • Space trees well so air moves through them
    • Keep irrigation water off the leaves
  • Disease

    Walnut blight

    Signs

    Dark spots on leaves, shoots and young nuts.

    What to do

    • Remove leaf debris from under the trees

    Prevention

    • Keep irrigation water off the leaves
    • Space trees well so air moves through them
  • Disease

    Phytophthora root and crown rot

    Signs

    Cankers on the bark at the soil line; the tree declines. Soil that stays wet for a day or more favours it.

    Prevention

    • Plant in well-drained soil, and level the land or lay drains where needed
    • Keep irrigation water off the trunk
    • Keep the graft union a few centimetres above the soil
  • Disease

    Crown gall

    Signs

    Swollen galls on the roots and the base of the trunk.

    Prevention

    • Plant only healthy nursery stock from a clean nursery
    • Plant in well-drained soil
    • Avoid wounding the roots and trunk
  • Disease

    Armillaria root rot

    Signs

    Trees wilt and die from a root rot.

    What to do

    • Dig out and remove diseased and dead trees
  • Disease

    Mistletoe

    Signs

    A parasitic plant that forms witches' brooms on the tree and feeds on it, lowering the crop.

    What to do

    • Cut the parasite out of the tree together with its roots in the wood
    • Where it is bad, cut out the whole branch or twig and burn it

Seed and the season's end

Saving seed1

Take seed nuts from vigorous, high-yielding trees with big, bright brown nuts, shells that crack well and bright yellow, well-flavoured kernels.

When the seed is ready

The green hull splits open and the nut drops or comes away easily, in September and October.

Cleaning the seed

Wash the seed clean in water and dry it in the shade.

Keep dry seed in airtight containers in a cool, dry place. Walnut seed keeps for 1 to 3 years.

After the last picking3Part of this comes from the sources cited. The rest is an AI suggestion.

Walnut is a perennial, so nothing is cleared after harvest. Rake up and compost the fallen leaves and hulls, and gather the pruned wood after leaf fall, which cuts the pests and leaf blotch carried to next spring. Then prune in the dormant season.

Rake up fallen leaves and hulls in autumn and compost them in a pit away from the trees, since the leaves carry leaf blotch to next spring. Burn diseased wood rather than leaving it in the orchard.

Rotation

Walnut stands for many decades. When an old tree is removed, grow a few seasons of fodder grasses or legumes before replanting, and do not set a new tree back into the old pit.

Sources

Where this comes from

Our team has checked this guide against the sources at the end of the page.Reviewed by our team on 13 November 2026.

These published guides are the sources. Where none of them covers a detail for this region, the page shows an AI suggestion and labels it.

  1. 1Package of practices for fruit crops 2020 (walnut chapter and nursery raising)Directorate of Extension, SKUAST-JammuRead the source
  2. 2Chip budding techniques for walnut (Juglans regia): enhancing propagation efficiency (Indian Farming 75(06): 08-12)ICAR (Indian Farming); authors at KVK Chamba and Dr YS Parmar University of Horticulture and Forestry, Nauni, SolanRead the source
  3. 3AESA based IPM package: walnutDirectorate of Plant Protection, Quarantine and Storage and National Institute of Plant Health Management, Ministry of Agriculture and Farmers Welfare, Government of IndiaRead the source

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